Mushrooms Arméniennes

I can't really describe this classic recipe as forgotten, but it seems to be overlooked and unfashionable these days. It fits perfectly with my plan to gather some of the recipes that I've been meaning to get around to for years. The first version of this recipe (at least, in English) seems to have surfaced in Elizabeth David’s ‘A Book Of Mediterranean Food’ in 1950 (interestingly, she suggests using red or white wine). It became a staple of the celebrated restaurant ‘The Hole in the Wall’ in Bath and its chef George Perry-Smith through the 1950s and 60s. In the following two or three decades, versions of the recipe surfaced now and then, but I've not seen it mentioned much in the new century. It's a simple recipe that's too tasty to fade away, so here's my version, for what it's worth.

The definition of “button” mushrooms is a bit loose and if yours are not quite as small as you might expect, then extend the cooking times a bit. I've used unsmoked pancetta in this recipe, but streaky bacon will be OK. Either way, make sure it's sliced thinly or very thinly. Smoked bacon will be fine too, if that's what you fancy, but if it's too heavily smoked, it might start to dominate the flavour of the dish. 

The mushrooms can be eaten hot as a side dish or chilled as part of a mezze, but, in my view, they're perfect slightly warm or at room temperature on a simple piece of toast. 

This should serve 2.

3 or 4 thin slices of pancetta, sliced or chopped into small pieces 
200g button mushrooms, cleaned but left whole
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
200 ml red wine (a light pinot noir works well, but use what you have)
A few leaves of parsley, finely chopped

Heat a little oil in a pan, and fry the pancetta briefly over quite a high heat - a minute should be long enough. Add the mushrooms and the garlic. Season with a little black pepper (you probably won't need extra salt, because of the pancetta). Continue frying, stirring frequently, over a medium to high heat for around 5 - 8 minutes. The mushrooms won't be fully cooked by this time, but should be well on their way. 

Add the wine, bring to the boil and let the pan bubble away, uncovered, for 5 - 10 minutes. After that time, the mushrooms should be fully cooked and tender. Ideally, at the same time, the wine should have reduced until it's thick and coating the mushrooms. There's a chance that the mushrooms might cook faster than the sauce and, if so, remove the mushrooms and reduce the wine until it's properly thick before pouring back over the mushrooms.

Immediately before serving, scatter over the parsley and drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil, as you see fit.