Slow Cooker Pork in Soy and Mirin

Around 45 years ago, I was best of chums with a woman who loved good food and was a fine cook. But, in her view, all that cooking palaver was wasting good partying time. Now and then, she did prepare some food for one of her own parties and that usually meant large pots of decidedly tasty chilli or a strange, vaguely oriental stew of chicken or pork cooked in prodigious amounts of soy sauce. The latter was stuffed into pitta bread before being served to bemused but captive partygoers. It was a very long way from being an authentic dish but, personally, I don't think there's anything wrong with that. To this day, though, I think it just might be the saltiest and, in some ways, the oddest thing I've ever attempted to eat.

Recently, I saw some pork shoulder steaks on offer in the supermarket and, for some reason, I remembered that curious, party dish. This definitely isn't an attempt to recreate it, but I think this modern version sort of captures the spirit of the original. It's even easier to put together (assuming you have a slow cooker) but, although I say so myself, it's tastier and definitely a lot less salty.  

I've given some guidance for cooking time in the recipe, but I've found that slow cookers vary so much that it's impossible to be precise. Fortunately, it's difficult to overcook this particular dish, so give it a little extra time, if you're in doubt.

You could serve this in any burger bun that happens to pass your way, or with rice (or cauliflower rice), or even in pitta bread just like the original. It's possibly best served while playing the Talking Heads album ‘Fear of Music’, if you want the authentic experience.

This should feed 4 people.

1 onion
4 pork shoulder steaks, around 2 cm thick 
500ml chicken stock
75ml mirin
50ml soy sauce (I prefer a reduced salt version)
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp coarsely grated ginger
1 tsp gochujang
2 tsp red wine vinegar

Peel and slice the onion into rings and scatter them across the bottom of the slow cooker. Put the lid on and turn the cooker on to the high setting.

Generally, there isn't too much fat on shoulder steaks, but trim any large pieces off, if you think it needs it. Lay the steaks on top of the onions, ideally in a single layer, but don't worry if there's some overlapping.

Combine all the remaining ingredients in a saucepan, place on a low to medium heat and stir together until the mixture is thoroughly combined and heated through. This shouldn't take long at all. I think it's best if the mixture isn't cold, but stop heating before it gets to simmering point. Pour the liquid over the steaks in the slow cooker. Ideally, it should just about cover them, but add a little more stock if the level is low. Put the lid back on and turn the heat setting to low. Let the cooker get on with it for around 8 hours. 

Carefully remove the pork (it should be inclined to fall apart), strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into a saucepan and discard the onions (they won't have any worthwhile flavour left). Reduce the liquid over a high heat until it makes a sauce that's thick enough to coat the pork, or as thick as you want it to be. You could add a little of your favourite thickener, if you're in a rush. Meanwhile, shred the meat with a couple of forks. You can serve this straightaway but, if you have the time, chill the meat and sauce and skim some of the fat from the sauce before combining them and reheating.